Journal Entry for Friday, May 26, 2000
    Pacaya Volcano

    We got more than we bargained for on our trip to Volcano Pacaya. We signed up in Antigua and were told we'd leave at 1:00pm and return at 9:00pm. It would be a two hour bus ride and a 1½ hour walk. Bring along a flashlight, umbrella, water and a lunch.

    The bus ride part was about right. After two hours we found ourselves at the end of a very bumpy road and the entrance to a national park where we and eight others met our guide, Leonel. The 1½ hour walk turned out to be two hours up and 1½ hours back. And it was no walk; it was a hike! If only we'd known, we would have brought much more water and probably psyched ourselves up for something more than "a walk."

The total hike was 3.5 kilometers (2.2 miles) each way.  The first half was through thick vegetation, the second through gravel sized bits of lava rock. A lot of it was a steep climb. We're into light clouds at this altitude and about ready to assault the summit. Much of the incline to the left of Jill (our approach) is a 35% grade. Difficult to ascend and descend, the gravel is fine and deep. It felt like walking through heavy snow.

Approaching the volcano's cone we no longer encounter clouds but steam from raindrops that hit the hot rocks and also some gasses from the volcanic activity. At this point the lava rocks were streaked with red and yellow. (I'm pretty sure the yellow color was from sulphur; you could smell it.)

We had our umbrellas to help keep us dry but were wishing for panchos instead. As it was we held umbrella in one hand and walking stick in the other. (In the forested area our guide had cut each of us a walking stick; he said we'd need them and he was right.)

This is a view looking down into the cone of the volcano. The bright orange spots are lava. (There was a lot of steam coming up so it was hard to get a good picture.) The gasses were so noxious you had to hold a handkerchief over your mouth to keep from wretching. You also had to be careful where you stood; vents of hot air were escaping from small holes all around the rim.

We were treated to some spectacular views on our way down as daylight retreated.

    Because there have been attacks on tourists on the trails after dark our tour included "security." Sure enough, two armed men joined us halfway back down the mountain for the nighttime part of the hike. (It gets dark around 6:30 this time of year in Guatemala.)

    We were back in Antigua at 9:00pm. The only thing we couldn't figure out is how anybody makes any money off this deal. The cost of the package was a mere $8 apiece!

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